Schiaparelli never fails to impress, producing those moments of gasping wonder that is the very definition of high fashion. Schiaparelli’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture collection, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, masterfully intertwines mythological inspiration with avant-garde design, reaffirming the house’s legacy of innovation. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry titled the collection “Icarus,” weaving in themes of ambition, perfection, the transcendent qualities of haute couture, and nods to golden sun hues. “Haute Couture aspires to reach great heights; it promises an escape from our complicated reality,” Roseberry says. “It also reminds us that perfection comes at a price. How high can we couturiers go? As high as the sun—and the Gods—allow us.”
This collection celebrates opulence, rigor, and audacious creativity while paying homage to the masters, forms, and styles of the last century. There is a fantastic experimentation work with nods to historical references and techniques. Corsets underpinned nearly every look, often featuring exaggerated, sculptural hip bones. Silhouettes took center stage, drawing inspiration from a wide range of eras. Daniel Roseberry explains, “The snaky, curvy forms of the 1920s and 1930s—what I call liquid deco—here find shapes in fragile silk georgette embroidered with Japanese bugle beads. This is then layered onto French corset toile, shaped into razor-sharp hip blades.” The result is a stunning fusion of past elegance and modern audacity.
A standout moment was Kendall Jenner’s appearance in a strapless, hourglass gown that created an optical illusion, accentuating the collection’s theme of surreal beauty. The ensemble featured intricate embroidery and a nude corset with structural hips, exemplifying Roseberry’s meticulous attention to detail and ability to blend classic silhouettes with contemporary aesthetics.
Daniel Roseberry rejects minimalism and uses wavy and asymmetrical designs, sumptuous fabrics, black, ivory, and champagne hues, complemented by extravagant details like ostrich feathers, embroidery, pearls, and crystal drops. This demonstrates the designer’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of couture. He says, “I’m so tired of everyone constantly equating modernity with simplicity: Can’t the new also be worked, be baroque, be extravagant?”
All photos are courtesy of Schiaparelli
